Spencer's Camera & Photo now offers reinstallation of the Sensor Cleaning/Dust Reduction System for most camera models. Simply select the re-installation option within the internal filter section when ordering your conversion/camera and the cleaning system will be reinstalled during the conversion process. In basic terms it is a camera that can 'see' more light than a normal camera. A full spectrum camera will still perform well as a 'normal' camera and will capture great normal images. It will also be able to capture infrared images, ultraviolet light images, and much more. Please, turn on JavaScript in your browser. Please, turn on JavaScript in your browser.
You see skies of azure… A turquoise surf, and… pink trees? No, that wasn’t a tab of lysergic acid diethylamide in your teacup, these are all symptoms of the latest DIY Full Spectrum DSLR conversion from deep within the labs of ALC.
I’m going to show you how to ‘see’ beyond the limits of human perception and into 3 quantitative realities at once with a relatively simple hack you can perform on your own DSLR at home and for virtually no cost if you already have the materials.
As the renowned 20th century inventor, Buckminster Fuller, famously said in 1979, “Since the initial publication of the chart of the electromagnetic spectrum, humans have learned that what they can touch, smell, see, and hear is less than one-millionth of reality.”
‘Full Spectrum Light’ by definition is electromagnetic energy that encompasses the spectrum of infrared, visible and near-ultraviolet light. While no creature is sensitive to this entire range of energy, this particular spectrum is arguably the most important for the development of plant and animal life on planet earth.
I will be using my secondary (backup) camera, an old Canon EOS 1000D (Also known as the Rebel XS in the USA and Kiss F in Japan) however the same steps can be applied to other entry-level DSLR’s as the construction is usually very similar. Normally, I would say something cheesy like ‘this camera has seen better days…’ but quite honestly, it’s about to see it’s best.
Disclaimer: This is not an electronics class, a glass cutting lesson or safety school. A basic understanding of circuit boards, how to connect/remove flexible flat cables and screwdriver operation is assumed.
FAQ:
Q: Will this conversion simply confirm my technological ineptitude or prove to be the transubstantiation of glass and electronic components into a veritable ‘third eye’?
A: The risk of permanently destroying your camera is real, but the conversion is not as difficult as it sounds. If there is something you don’t understand, leave a comment and I will help you with this hack as best I can.
Digital Cameras Reviews
You Will Need:
Camera
- [Expensive Method] Full Spectrum Glass Filter (Such as this Astronomik MC glass filter ≈ $70)
- [Cheaper Method] UV Glass Filter ( Results in the loss of the UV spectrum – This is not actually that big of deal as I will explain later…)
- Screwdriver
- Needle
- Glass Cutter
- Sand Paper
- Glue
- Faith
Step 1:
- Remove 7 screws from the bottom of the camera.
- Remove 2 screws from the left-hand side (When held in shooting position) of the camera.
- Remove 2 screws from the right-hand side (When held in shooting position) of the camera.
- Remove 2 screws from the front of the camera (above the body cap).
- Remove 4 screws from behind the eye cup (Note: Top right screw comes off with diopter wheel).
- Remove 1 screw from the top left hand side (When held in shooting position) of the camera (Within the camera strap recess).
- Remove 1 screw from the top right-hand side (When held in shooting position) of the camera (Within the camera strap recess).
Step 2:
- Removed the back cover from the camera body with nothing more than a gentle force. It is attached to the camera body by a flexible flat cable (FFC) in the bottom right corner that connects the LCD and accompanying buttons.
- To unplug the cable, flip up the black locking latch found on the circuit board connector with a nimble implement (or just a fingernail) and it should slide out freely.
- Remove the panel (housing the shutter release, HDMI & USB (etc) connectors) from the left hand side of the camera.
Step 3:
Behold the The Digic III board, i.e. the brains of the camera. Behind it lies our goal in today’s operation: The eye of the camera, AKA The 10.1 megapixel APS-C CMOS sensor, released in 2008. That might not sound like much on paper, but don’t be fooled: This indomitable digital eye before you has taken photos that have appeared on magazine covers. Alas, time is no friend to technology. Everyone knows it’s not about the megapixels, but 10 is pushing it in terms of resolution… And the max ISO doesn’t go higher than the year you were born.
In order to gain access to the sensor, we must first remove the Digic III board. Attached to the board are 11 flex cables and 5 screws that must be unplugged/removed (Circled in pink & green).
Most of the cables cannot simply be pulled out as they are locked in place. As seen in Figure 4., to unlock the flex cable, use a fingernail or nimble implement (like a needle) to flip up the latch. Insert the eye of the needle into the hole you see in the center of the flex cable. Use the needle to gently pull the cable from its connector as not to damage it from the force of your comparatively large fingertips.
Use extra caution when unplugging the sensor, as seen in Figure 1.
The green circles indicate a flex cable that is concealed beneath another flex cable which must first be removed before access is granted, as seen in Figure 2.
The top-rightmost screw is located beneath a ribbon cable that must first be removed before access.
As seen in Figure 3., the bottom-leftmost screw is located on the left hand side of the camera. Following successful extraction of the screw, remove the metal shielding it once held in place.
The board should lift out with ease if all cables/screws have been correctly removed. However, it still remains attached by a loosely connected fiber optic cable (Circled in pink) that must also be unplugged.
Step 4:
In order to get unrestricted access to the sensor, we must first remove the front and top plastic body panels. To do this, flip the camera over and unhook the pictured tab (Attached to the faceplate) from over the tripod socket. The faceplate should lift off.
When looking at the front of the camera, you will notice 2 connectors (x1 red & x1 yellow) just beneath the rim of the lens port on the circuit board. Carefully unplug these (Using tweezers or a pair of long-nose pliers) and the top panel will lift off.
If done correctly, the camera should begin to resemble C-3PO from Episode I.
Step 5:
Remove the sensor. The sensor is held in place by 5 screws (Circled in pink) and connected by one flex cable (Circled in orange).
Full Spectrum Video Camera
Step 6:
Disassemble the sensor. As seen in this digitally-rendered deconstruction of the sensor from Canon’s official documentation, it is comprised of many individual parts. This design is flawed for 2 reasons: (1) The low-pass filter and infrared absorption glass (obviously) block the transmission of infrared light. (2) Together, the low-pass filter and piezoelectric element (glued to each other) form the dust removal system, and I regret to inform you that if you wish to continue with this operation, you must permanently remove this extremely useful component from your camera. Don’t worry, a true professional knows that dust won’t ruin a good picture… And if this is your first time DIYing, the amount of dust you’ll get on the ACTUAL sensor thanks to this conversion is probably much more than that piece of vibrating glass could ever shake off anyway…
(The following steps are shown from a 550D Disassembly. While the appearance of this sensor may vary with that of the 1000D, in essence it, and the process, remains the same.)
- Remove the 3 screws from the front of the sensor (Circle in purple).
- Using a thin flat-head screwdriver, unhook the support material from the black frame – It is held on by tension and some clips.
- The dust removal mechanism can be freely lifted from the sensor. The black plastic frame housing the infrared-absorption glass should follow.
- This piece of glass is held in place by thin strips of adhesive. Use a sharp blade to cut it free. Don’t worry if the glass breaks because it will no longer be needed in this camera ever again.
You should be left with only 3 of the original components like so:
Step 7:
That’s it? Both the IR-absorption glass and low-pass filter have been removed, so the full spectrum conversion is done, right? Incorrect… Well semi-incorrect.
Because we have physically altered the distance of the focal plane, we must replace the gap with a filter of the exact same width if we wish the camera to focus correctly ever again. Now, if we are to go down the true ‘full spectrum’ route, then one must acquire/purchase a true ‘full spectrum’ glass filter like this. This disadvantage of this method is a considerable lack of availability and high costs.
If you, like me, often find myself in places far removed from civilisation where access to even the most rudimentary store is not an option (and the Lord knows eBay or Amazon won’t deliver there), then you’ll want to know how to do this with absolute minimal expense and using materials that you are either likely to already have or can easily acquire. Rich or poor, much of the world has access to camera technology nowadays. A successful DIY hack only requires a hint of resourcefulness and a dash of ingenuity.
Cue the UV filter. I’m using this for a few reasons:
- They are cheap and easily found, even in developing countries.
- Regular glass (the type used in your lens) filters out ultraviolet light by it’s very nature. In order to capture light in this high frequency spectrum, one needs a specialized lens made out of quartz glass, saffron, and white truffle. I can’t even afford to fix the stuck aperture on my current lens.
- My intention with this camera is to document a mix of visible & infrared light, commonly known as color-infrared, so the loss of the UV spectrum is inconsequential to me at this point in time.
- In other words, ‘ a perfect fit’.
Unzip the bag, stick in your hand and pull out/peel open your filter of choice. If you are lucky, there will be an inner ring with 2 notches holding the circular piece of glass into the metal frame. Simply unscrew it using 2 flathead screwdrivers, like this. If you are not lucky (which I never am), there will be no conceivable way to remove the glass without using destructive force on the filter.
Using a file, grind your way (very gently I might add) through the metal ring until you reach the glass. If you accidentally file the glass, you may shatter it. Once there is a clean cut all the way through the metal ring, bend it outwards and the circular piece of glass will drop out.
If you have never cut glass before, I recommend searching for a tutorial before this next step and/or your first attempt.
- Trace the shape of the original infrared absorption glass (or the inner part of its black plastic sensor mount) onto a piece of paper as a reference for cutting the new filter.
- Secure the circular glass onto a surface using tape.
- Transfer the cutting guide onto your new glass.
- Using a glass cutter, cut out your new rectangular filter from the glass. Refer to this animated GIF for an example of how to score & break the glass.
It is more than likely that your new filter is a far from perfect rectangle with razor sharp edges. Use a piece of sandpaper to whittle down the edges until it fits into the black plastic mount that once housed the original infrared-absorption glass.
Put a drop of superglue in each corner to hold the filter in place.
Nothing is more beautiful than the roughly chiseled edges of a home modification in contrast with the sleek, machined ridges of a technological marvel.
Step 8:
Follow this guide in reverse to reassemble your camera. Optional step: Close your eyes and pray during the moment that you turn it back on for the first time. Doesn’t turn on? Don’t worry, this happens to me all the time. Open the camera back up and ensure that every unplugged wire and flex cable is fully inserted and properly seated in its connector.
Prepare to immerse yourself in a realm of expanded perception.
Not only are the pictures a nostalgic throwback to the days of Aerochrome color-infrared film photography, but the ability to render reflected infrared light in shades of hot pink is one of the most striking visual discriminations possible.
Spectrum Camera Solutions
That’s right. Leaves, grass, flowers, clothes, hair & even eyes will appear in shades of pink that Photoshop, Hubba Bubba, nor your girlfriend’s nail polish could ever hope to replicate.
Spectrum Security Camera
Infrared photography was originally developed as an aerial surveillance tool due to the fact that vegetation reflects infrared light very brightly. As chlorophyll in plants only needs visible light to carry out the vital process of photosynthesis, leaves and flowers reflect nearly all infrared light that falls on them. This means the health of plant can be gauged by how brightly it glows in the IR spectrum. The color pink was chosen to represent reflected IR light in Aerochrome film due to the fact that it is one of the least common colors to see in the natural environment, and therefore the most eye-catching.